The distinctive feeling of “who I am” and “what I represent” is reflected in the choices each and every one of us make, from the most fundamental things in life to cars, watches and shoes. A person’s ability to develop and express his personal style in his clothing items is nothing less than powerful individualism, which is the foundation for creation, passion, and art.
Personalized shoes are made at three levels of customization: Bespoke – made for a specific individual, including designing the shoes according to his preferences, the specific dimensions of his feet, and use of special materials such as fabric, leather and designer’s silk, according to that person’s will and whims; Semi Bespoke – unlike Bespoke design, here the shape of the shoe is predetermined, but the customer determines the other details; Made to Order – a fixed design that is made in advance, without measurements, and the customer only gets to choose the fabric, materials, and colors.
The Italians, who know a thing or two about fashion and design, call personalized shoes sprezzatura. This is an expression that means studied nonchalance, understated elegance, appearing effortless. And that is exactly what a personalized shoe aspires to be.
Sources of Inspiration
In 2016, the English luxury brand Mount Street Shoe Company was founded. The brand brings together traditional hand-made workmanship and the fine art of shoe making, and ongoing passion for personalized style. The customer can choose the fabric, color, the lining and the leather, and after all these fascinating and infinite combinations you will never need to compromise on another pair of shoes that were spat off an assembly line and sold off the shelf.
The brand’s founder and creative director, Nigel M. Siwani, promises a perfect product that best reflects the individual wearing it. “You can tell a lot about a man by his shoes”, he says, “Mine have always been immaculately polished, elegantly understated but also occasionally colourful and bold. My father taught me the importance of good shoes and they have become a lifelong love affair for me.”
The inspiration for the brand comes from Beau Brummell, an 18th century men’s fashion designer. He is known for his flawless style and impeccable tailoring and he insisted on putting his elegant twist on everything he wore, thus making his mark. Siwani did it with the slippers collection, which was inspired by things that he himself would wear. Only later did he translate it to something he could sell. The slippers quickly generated a buzz and even though the brand includes an impressive line of shoes, with several different styles (elegant, casual, golf, and more), he is most identified with and defined by the slippers collection, and for good reason. “You can wear them in any situation and to any event – from elegant wear to sophisticated daily attire”, explain Siwani. “Also, our slippers tell a fair bit about the individual wearing them and are personalized to the owner’s interests, hobbies, and loves. Such as the cigar, whiskey, and sports car collections.”
What do you think makes a good shoe manufacturer into a brilliant shoe designer?
“A shoe manufacturer thinks about what will sell, and thought may limit the design options. A shoe designer thinks only about design. When I started with the slippers I wanted to design something that had never been done before. I always create something new, and I never imitate anyone. Which is why there are requests I won’t fulfill, if I know that they’ll result in me copying designs.”
Do you also make slippers for women?
“Absolutely. You can party all night in our slipper shoes, something you cannot do in heels. Our women’s slippers collection is called Scarlett.”
What materials do you use?
“Mostly leather and silk. Not every silk is suitable for making shoes, and I manipulate the silk in different ways to make it suitable.”
Tailoring to a Personality, not to a Trend
Mount Street Shoes are strictly made to order. There is no inventory, only a few samples in all the sizes, so the customer can try them on. Customers come from all over the world, mainly from Russia, Singapore, the United States and Britain, as well as some Israelis and quite a few young people that understand quality and are willing to pay for it (“They are the ones that love to order everything online”). It seems that the unique line and personalized genre is becoming increasingly more popular.
Siwani recounts that sometimes customers are overwhelmed by the abundance of options, styles, and infinite combinations that you can create. “It’s a bit like being a kid in a candy shop and wanting everything you see. As soon as we decide on the style – slippers or shoes, we take measurements, and then the fun begins. We select fabrics, colors, and see a 3-dimensional simulation of the shoe, which nicely demonstrates what the shoe will eventually look like. During the creation process, a great deal of attention is paid to all the details, even the most minute ones, like the color of the seam, and they are all customizable to the customer’s preferences. It’s like visiting a tailor that has a lot of textiles, materials, linings, and so forth, and to choose from an unlimited variety. After confirming the shoe with the customer comes the preparation stage, and after four weeks the shoes are ready and couriered to the customer’s home, anywhere in the world.”
All the shoes, without exception, are hand-made by expert craftspeople that have learned the secrets of the trade that have been handed down through the generations. This is a precise and painstaking process that can only be achieved by hand. “For example, the shoes are cut only by a professional that is skilled in this specific field, from the variety of materials used to make the shoe. Although we use modern manufacturing machinery in the process, nothing is done automatically at any stage.”
How many professionals work on one pair of shoes?
“Twenty five people are needed to make a pair of shoes, and test are conducted at each stage to verify and ensure quality control. There is no room for error, and each stage is performed wit the utmost care and professionalism.”
The Mount Street Shoe Company’s unique production line makes 12 styles of shoes, boots and slippers. There are shoes with a clean modern design that is sophisticated and for day to day wear, and others that are designed for specific occasions and individual hobbies. “For example there is a special design for yacht enthusiasts”, says Siwani.
What’s new with your designs for this summer?
“Glow in the dark shoes and shoes you can wear to work. I’m launching the collection early, so that people can order the shoes and receive them before the summer season. In the summer I sell mostly slippers.”
How much do your shoes cost?
“Made to order shoes and boots cost 550 pounds on average, slippers for men and women cost 345 pounds. Semi Bespoke designs cost more, and the price is determined according to the materials the customer selects.”
